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The Colombo Spirit>>Travel>>Around the World
Nagoya: City of Many Stories
By Lisa Dadlani
2009-10-1311:07
I think I’ve been bitten by that damn travel bug again….my mind keeps diverting to exotic locales, my taste-buds crave food that is foreign to the palate, the brain looks for the next adventure.
It’s clearly time to travel once again. But this time, I reckon I’ll check out a place that’s not so tourist oriented. A place that isn’t pre-packaged to cater to the visiting hordes from the rest of the world. It’s time to head to the little known, but surprisingly well established city of Nagoya in Japan.
Nagoya is the third-largest incorporated city and the fourth most populous urban area in Japan, and is the capital and largest city of Aichi prefecture in the Chubu region of the island of Honshu. Nagoya is also home to auto-making giants Toyota, Honda, and Mitsubishi Motors.

Let’s face it, this is not something that will bring the tourists flocking in – which personally I think is more reason than ever to visit. Nagoya is bound to surprise, with so much left to discover, and a culture that has not been overwhelmed by tourist influences.

Let’s take a short walkthrough of the history of this little known city.

The city's name - Nagoya - was derived from the name of a famous manor which existed in the 12th century called Nagono. This manor prospered until the middle of the fourteenth century and people continued to call the area “Nagono” long after it had gone. Over time, the pronunciation of the Chinese characters in the name "Nagono" shifted to "Nagoya", by which the city is now known.

Three famous figures who were instrumental in unifying Japan under one government – hailed from the city, and shaped the future of the country, and pretty much put Nagoya on the map. Oda Nobunaga, Toyotomi Hideyoshi and Tokugawa Ieyasu all strived for the unification of Japan, and Tokugawa Ieyasu finally succeeded in 1603, and established the Tokugawa Shogunate, which would rule Japan for another 250 years.

The 1920's marked the beginnings of the automotive industry in Nagoya, which continues in importance to the current day. At the heart of the industry is the Toyota Motor Corporation. Starting from humble beginnings as a loom-making company, Toyota entered into the automobile business in the 1930s. It now stands as the world's largest automaker, and continues to dominate the local economy.

During World War II however, the city’s factories were used mainly in the manufacture of military goods and arms – thereby making it a prime target for attacks. As a result, a large area of the city was completely destroyed by the end of the war, resulting in a new era for Nagoya, and reconstruction efforts rebuilt it into the bustling economic powerhouse it is today!

Modern day Nagoya is a bustling metropolis – although it holds only a few tourist attractions. One of the most interesting of these however, is Nagoya Castle – originally built under the orders of Tokugawa Ieyasu following the unification of Japan. The castle was built to be the residence for his son, and was indeed a safe house due to the natural water barriers that surrounded three sides of the castle. Unfortunately, the original castle was mostly destroyed during bombing raids in the Second World War, and what exists today is a reconstruction of the original. The Castle houses a museum, observation deck, and surrounding gardens. Meanwhile, for an insightful look into Japanese and Nagoya culture, visit the Atsuta Shrine, in which the sacred Kusanagi no mitsurugi sword is kept. This legendary sword is one of the three Imperial regalia of Japan, consisting of the sword, a mirror Yata no kagami, and a jewel Yasakani no magatama. The regalia represent the three primary virtues: valour (the sword), wisdom (the mirror), and benevolence (the jewel), and are said to be located in three different regions of the country.

Unfortunately nobody but the emperor and a few high priests get to see this fabled sword, but, there are some 4,400 other artefacts on the grounds and the shrine hosts some 70 festivals every year.

On the other hand, if you’re a car enthusiast, don’t miss out on the Toyota Commemorative Museum of Industry and Technology. The museum is located on the site of one of Toyota's original loom factories, and tells the story of the Toyota corporation, taking visitors from the company’s humble beginnings as an industrial loom manufacturer through to its impressive transformation in to one of the world's largest car manufacturers. The museum is home to large loom machinery and car display halls as well as a hands-on "Technoland" with interactive science exhibits.

If it’s shopping and general dining locations you’re after, head downtown to a district called Sakae. This mix up of old landmarks and futuristic new buildings offers visitors with a large array of shopping, entertainment and dining options. The district's old landmark is the Nagoya TV Tower, the oldest of its kind in Japan. Completed in 1954, the 180 meters tall TV antenna houses an observation deck 100 meters above the ground and provides a stunning view of the cityscape.

The Oasis 21 complex is Sakae's new landmark. This futuristic looking complex was opened to the public in 2002 and houses Nagoya's highway bus terminal and several shops and restaurants. Various events are held on the "Milky Way Square", the public space below the building's intriguing "Water Spaceship" roof.

Also in Sakae, visit the Aichi Prefectural Museum of Art, which houses an impressive collection featuring international and Japanese 20th century art. Proudly displayed here are works from Pablo Picasso, Henri Matisse, Gustav Klimt, Paul Klee, Joan Miro, Max Ernst, German Expressionists, Surrealists, and postwar US artists. The Japanese collection features the art of Yuichi Takahashi, Ryuzaburo Umehara, Sotaro Yasui, Taikan Yokoyama, and Shunso Hishida. Sakae also has a number of department stores, Nadya Park, a design center and museum, a Kinokuniya bookstore and various other shops and restaurants.

Finally, after all the sight seeing is done and over, and all you want to do is kick back with a drink and enjoy the rest of the night, you really won’t be disappointed. Nagoya has a surprisingly thriving night life – mostly centered around the Sakae district – with a number of pubs and clubs located in close vicinity to each other.

As with most thriving cities, the pubs vary from the cheap to the ultra expensive. Even international chains like the Hard Rock café have marked their presence here.

The night clubs are equally popular here – Nagoya’s party scene has some of the best clubs in Japan and is probably second only to Tokyo. However, the clubbing scene ends surprisingly early, at around 2 am. Most of the clubs are once again situated in the Sakae district.

So there we go…. Nagoya in a nutshell. A city that has plenty of interesting stories, and most importantly, a city that seems to be removed from the craziness of a tourist city. So as I do my research, proceed to clear out my savings and pack my bags, I’m excited about all the possibilities that this city has to offer… let’s just hope my boss approves my leave!

Singapore Airlines now flies 7 times a week to Nagoya.

 
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